For the Love of Japanese Tea: A Conversation with Musician and Tea Enthusiast Richard Eigner
Richard Eigner, an Austrian musician and sound artist who has worked with renowned artists such as Patrick Wolf and Flying Lotus, has recently found a new passion in the world of Japanese teas. His interest in tea, particularly Matcha, led him to take over the online tea shop "Green Tea Blue Sky" from Bernhard Engelmann, who is a master of Matcha preparation and a student of the Urasenke tea school. In this interview, Richard talks about Japanese tea culture, his favorite Japanese teas, and why it's important to offer organic teas. He also shares his experience of taking over the online tea shop and the adventure it has been so far.
„What strikes me the most about tea is the sheer incomprehensible number of flavors that can result from brewing the leaves of just a single original plant. “
Richard, could you please introduce yourself and tell our hungry and thirsty readers a bit about your background?
Of course! I'm primarily a musician and sound artist, and my main musical project is called , which may be known to Radio FM4 and OE1 listeners. As a studio drummer, I've contributed to a lot of records, most notably by Patrick Wolf, Flying Lotus, and Patrick Pulsinger, and I've written music for theatre plays and short films. I've always been interested in culinary art, and after my music was used for a documentary video, I met the guys from Feldküche, who are now better known as the agency Friendship. Thanks to them, I discovered how interesting fine dining can be. During the last few years, for various reasons, I've had a lot of spare time on my hands and have been practicing cooking and baking and also food photography. This led to me photographing the book "Schönscharf Thai Food," documenting the great work of Hubert Mauracher, who is also a musician and a cook.
How did you become interested in tea and Japanese teas in particular?
I've always loved a good Genmaicha (which is normally a lower-grade Sencha mixed with roasted rice) as an accompaniment to a nice Japanese dish. When I met my girlfriend, she prepared a cup of Genmai for me one night, and I was blown away. After I asked her where she got that excellent tea from, she first told me that her cousin Bernhard runs an online store for Japanese specialty tea. So at every family meeting, I asked him if he could prepare a tea for me, which was my first experience with authentic Matcha, the way it should be and which is quite a mind-blowing experience! I have to add that Bernhard Engelmann is an absolute master of Matcha preparation and a student of the Urasenke tea school for 12 years.
What is it about tea that you find so fascinating?
What strikes me the most about tea is the sheer incomprehensible number of flavors that can result from brewing the leaves of just a single original plant. Depending on the different processing after the harvest, different harvesting times, etc., the taste can vary from floral, light, and refreshing to extremely smoky and intense and everything you can imagine in between. I also find it super interesting how delicate the preparation of tea can be, how many factors come into play, like water temperature, amount of tea leaves, the effect different pots and bowls have on the final taste, and that brewing tea can be such an individual thing.
Can you tell us a bit about Japanese tea culture (and how it differs from other tea cultures)?
Most Japanese loose leaf tea types are steamed after they are harvested, so the fresh, grassy aroma is preserved very well. For some teas such as Matcha (the powdered, stone-milled variety), Gyokuro, or Kabusecha, the plants are shaded for variable times during the growing process, so the final tea tastes sweeter and is full of Umami, a unique feature!
The Japanese tea ceremony and its connection to Zen is very special. If you ever have the opportunity to attend one, I recommend you accept the invitation without hesitation, as it is a great honor to be asked to participate. The very slow pace of the proceedings opens the mind, heightens the senses, and allows one to appreciate Matcha in both ways of preparation: as foamy Usucha (thin tea) and the lesser-known Koicha (thick tea), which is almost a thick paste that can be overwhelming in the most pleasurable way.
What are some of your favorite Japanese teas, and what makes them special to you?
At the top of my list are, of course, ceremony-grade Matchas by Marukyu Koyamaen from Kyoto; they are unbelievably delightful. At the moment, I also dearly love the Kirishima Tennen Gyokuro, cultivated by the Hayashi family in Kyushu. It is a very special organic Gyokuro, rewarding from the moment you open the tea package and enjoy its intense grassy, caramelly smell until the very last drop of the prepared tea, which is incredibly elegant and fulfilling. Last but not least, I often prepare myself a cup of Wazuka Yūki Oolong Cha, which is special in many ways, as it is rare to find a Japanese Oolong at all, and even rarer in organic quality. This tea fascinates me as it applies the Japanese way of roasting found in Hojichas to Oolongs, which causes the most awesome smokiness! A big recommendation!
Your online shop "Green Tea Blue Sky" specializes in Japanese teas, most of them organic. Why is it important to you to offer organic teas?
If possible, we always prefer to offer an organic version of a tea, which can be quite a tricky task since tea farming in an organic way is not easy, and often times the non-organic version can be preferable in taste. Also, organic tea farming is not widespread in China and Taiwan at the moment. So if we can support organic tea farmers by promoting their work in any way, we are glad to.
What inspired you to take over the online tea shop "Green Tea Blue Sky" from its founder Bernhard Engelmann in 2022?
Well, Bernhard wanted to close the shop because he was having less and less time with his main occupation, and I wanted to continue to drink the excellent teas. So I took over, and it has been a great adventure with many great cups of new tea so far!
How do you select the teas you offer in your shop, and what do you look for in high-quality tea?
Bernhard and I are always searching for special teas, trying out different varieties, which can be a time-consuming but fascinating process. Bernhard is responsible for finding the best matcha, drawing on his extensive experience in this field. I am always searching for Japanese loose leaf teas, mostly online so far. We also receive great help from Angie at Deerland Tea, who selects teas directly from Taiwan. I haven't yet received anything from her that is not outstanding, so stay tuned for some new loose leaf teas in the shop!
What we look for in high-quality tea is, first and foremost, a special character and a certain intensity. There is nothing worse to me than a boring, weak tea - that's my worst nightmare. For matcha, the criteria are a certain complexity, not too much bitterness, and a certain balance. It's difficult to describe in words, but when an excellent tea is prepared, the difference is clear in seconds. Like with any culinary ingredient, when it's just right, it's a great joy!
Due to our passion for print culture, we are always interested in the favorite reads of our friends and colleagues. What are some of your favorite reads on tea and tea culture, such as magazines or books, and why do you enjoy them?
My favorite book on tea culture has to be "Das Japanische Teehaus: Architektur und Zeremonie" by Wolfgang Fehrer. It's not only beautifully made, with a stitched binding and incredibly detailed information, but it's also a pleasure to read. "The Book of Tea" by Kakuzo Okakura is a classic book that I highly recommend, and my favorite version is published by Insel Verlag. The most well-made magazine on tea and tea culture is "Eighty Degrees." I always lose myself in the jaw-dropping photography of Japanese tea sweets. In Austria, you can find it exclusively at Ferment. Since last year, some enthusiasts have published the German magazine "T - Das Magazine für Teekultur," where I first learned about Koridashi, a Japanese cold brew method where you gently place tea leaves on ice cubes and then enjoy your tea once the ice has completely melted, which can take up to two hours.
Finally, do you have any advice for someone who is just starting to explore the world of tea and Japanese teas?
Don't brew your Japanese greens with boiling water. And for a deeper dive, you may want to attend our tea tasting event on May 11th at Ferment Kiosk!
In the interview, Richard Eigner recommends the tea and tea culture magazine "Eighty Degrees". Take a look at some of its latest issues in our online kiosk:
Credits:
header photo of Richard Eigner: © Ian Ehm
2nd photo of Richard Eigner: © Tanya Traboulsi
